After almost a month in Manila, we were dying to get away from the concrete jungle. Enough of the traffic, pollution and honking at all times of the day. Some peace and quiet and some nature was in order.
Enter Taal Lake and its “island in a lake on an island in a lake on an island”. Only 70 km south of Manila, in Cavite province, the bucolic lake and active volcano promised to be the balm for our weary ears and lungs! We’d go on a day trip, take a boat ride, hike a little and have some local Filipino food at nearby Tagaytay.
Our daylong escape started at just before 7am with a car and driver from Car Rental Manila picking us up (3,000 pesos/day gas not included). However, the escape proved slower than anticipated, as the 70km trip took us 2 hours to get to and 4 hours to return! In hindsight, an overnight trip might have been best.
Upon arriving at Taal Lake, we proceeded to the Taal Lake Yacht Club, from which we had booked our return boat trip to the island (2,500 pesos for the four of us). There are other boat rentals around, but we were told by friends that this one was the most reputable and they offer a pre-booking rate. The rate also includes the mandatory guide that takes you up the volcano.
The boat ride is a scenic, 20 or 40 minute jaunt in a “bangka”, a small traditional catamaran/outrigger canoe. The lake is fairly large and can get choppy when windy, and is a favourite sailing spot for Filipinos. The length of the trip depends on which hike you plan to take once on the island: the standard trail of the “secret” one.
We chose the regular trail as it goes up to the rim of the volcano, from which you can get clear views of the region and the quasi-fluorescent green waters of Crater Lake (which is home to another small island, hence the island in a lake on an island in a lake on an island). The Secret Trail takes you to the water’s edge instead of the rim, so doesn’t offer the same views, but is supposed to be less busy.
Instead of hiking the 1-hour trail, you can hop on one of the many horses (for a fee) available at the small town located at the bottom of the trail. The horses seem fairly well cared for but it can’t be an easy life for them! If hiking up, you will have to watch your step as the horses share most of the trail with you and nobody cleans up after them.
Whichever way you take, make sure to have a hat and plenty of liquid. While the trail isn’t overly steep and our 10-year-old son actually called it one of the easiest hikes he’s ever done, it is hot and the last third of the trail offers absolutely no shade.
Leaving early in the morning is also a good idea as the trail’s black sand amplifies the sun’s heat. The steam rising from the rocks attest to the volcano’s state, and also adds to the heat. By the time we were walking back down at about noon, it was already in the mid-30s! There are a couple of sari-sari stores located along the trail selling water, food and cold drinks though and is another way to help the local economy.
After your morning hike, head into Tagaytay, which lies on a rim overlooking Taal Lake. This small city offers amazing views back on the lake and features a few interesting activities for families, such as the Sky Ranch, People’s Park in the Sky, Picnic Grove and Puzzle Mansion. While we only took a day-trip to the area, there’s enough to do to warrant an overnight stay.
There are a number of restaurants with amazing views offering the local specialty, “bulalo”, a bone marrow stew native to this region. Finish off your meal with buco pie, made with coconut slices about 2 inches high! On your way back to Manila, hit one of the many fruit stands and buy a few pomelos and pineapples. They are grown extensively in the region so are fresh and cheaper than back in Manila!
